Epupa means “foam” in Herero, referring to the spray created as the Kunene River flows over rocks along the Namibia-Angola border. The river splits into channels and falls across about 1.5 kilometres, with the largest drop reaching 37 metres. Along the river, you find a small settlement with Himba homesteads, shops, a clinic, school, campsites and lodges, while cattle and goats remain central to daily life. This is a remote part of the Kaokoveld, with power from solar panels and generators and patchy mobile reception, so expect few modern services.