The Palmwag Concession is a 550,000-hectare protected area in northwestern Namibia, known for its basalt landscapes on the Etendeka Plateau and home to more than 70% of the world’s free-roaming black rhinos, alongside desert-adapted elephants, lions, giraffes and other predators. You explore it by self-drive or guided tour, and a 4WD vehicle is needed for the riverbeds and canyons. Wildlife spreads out over a large area, so a rhino-tracking excursion or a patient game drive gives the best chance of a sighting – and Twyfelfontein and the Hoanib Valley are both within easy reach!